Identify Implant Brand and Size?
I need some help identifying the brand and size of implants in the pano. I need to order abutments and screws. Patient does not have any information on prior dentist who installed them. thanks for your help.
11 Comments on Identify Implant Brand and Size?
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Gregori Kurtzman, DDS, MA
3/8/2016
They appear to be old Corvent basket implants. Long ago discontinued.
Jaime Paredes
3/8/2016
I think they are Zimmer implants, I don't know if they are discontinued. But you can try to speak with sale department to they send you a try kit for abutments and screws
Dr. Gerald Rudick
3/8/2016
Seems to me that you want to make a new fixed bridge....why not remove the bridge; and if it was a cementable situation, then either tap it off or cut the retaining crowns and expose the present abutments......they are most probably screwed on to the implants..... unscrew them, and source out some different type lab analogs until you find a fit.
If they are Corevent as has been suggested, then the internal connection has not changed since their inception, and can be matched with Implant Direct, Zimmer, Adin,etc.
If it is a screw retained bridge, unscrew it and follow the same protocol.
Gregori Kurtzman, DDS, MA
3/8/2016
The old Corvent baskets used a polysulphone abutment that was shaped then cast then was cemented into the implant like a cast post and core Later designs before it was discontinued used a screw retained abutment. But am not sure its the same connector as current implants but Zimmer tech can help you with that
Gregori Kurtzman, DDS, MA
3/8/2016
here is what the Corvent basket looks like
The other possibility is the ITI basket
the ITI has a flared neck which the Corvent doesnt and hard to tell in the PAN if the neck is flared on these. But non the less both designs discontinued years ago. But the ITI parts for the current implants with flared neck will fit the ITI basket
Dr. Gerald Rudick
3/8/2016
Hello Gregori,
What you say is true for situations that required an angled abutment...only straight abutments did exist, this can be verified with Gerry Niznick ........as a matter of fact, a patient of mine had some implants installed in India years ago....the implants are well integrated, but the prosthetics have failed, and I remembered doing a case on a Corevent Implant (not sure if it was the Basket model) with a cast angled post 35 years ago.....so I am going to try this old system to do the same thing in 2016....I will use a plastic temporary resin and a plastic sprue pin machined to go into the screw portion of the implant to create the castable structure.......Our enquirer in this case may want to try the same system.
Best regards,
Gerry Rudick Montreal, Canada
Gregori Kurtzman, DDS, MA
3/8/2016
Agree can fabricate a plastic pattern with GC Pattern resin if it was cementable. if it has a screw hole in the implant AND parts not available anymore then witha carbide remove the threads to create a smooth channel then make the pattern. the pattern can then be copy milled in zirconia or metal or cast
Dr. Gerald Rudick
3/9/2016
Hello again Gregori,
In the technique of making a plastic pattern to be cast into an implant post, there is a word of caution that must be respected.
In a previous posting a few days ago, a dentist mentions drilling into an implant and accidentally perforating the implant and asking if MTA would help to seal the perforation and save the implant....and the advice was REMOVE THE IMPLANT....IT IS GAME OVER!!!
It is dangerous to try to drill into the screw hole to remove the threads for the above reason that may risk a perforation, but equally dangerous is the heat that would be generated during the drilling with a carbide bur. The temperature would be very high, and that heat would be transferred to the implant body and literally cook the live bone in contact with it.....so any kind of drilling inside an implant where the coolant cannot reach the cutting surface is definitely contraindicated and dangerous.
By starting to develop a resin pattern from a plastic sprue, or a plastic swizzle stick or plastic mixing spatula provided with some dental products ...........with sand paper discs, shape the post that would fit into the screw hole, passing through the internal hex without engaging the surface of the implant. Gently lubricate the internal portion of the implant with a tiny amount of liquid separating medium found in a chairside denture reline kit, and apply this by wetting an endodontic paper point and coating the internal surfaces. When the separating medium is dry, apply a small layer of soft resin material to the surface of the post, and run it up and down while it is setting.......this way it will not get stuck on the threads or internal hex. After this portion of the plastic post is set, place it and build up the core portion of the post. You do not want a post that is too tight or too engaging, because a tiny space must be left in order for the casting to be cemented into the implant. seated, there should be absolutely no movement of the plastic pattern in the implant.
For beginners, it is very easy to work with the plastic resin to obtain a reasonably well fitting post and core. before actually doing the casting.......and another word of caution is to check with your lab to ensure that the cast metal will be a Noble Metal that will not conflict with titanium and set up a Galvanic reaction. I am not sure if I would trust milled Zirconium to be the actual post material.
Gerry Rudick Montreal Canada
Seth Black
3/9/2016
Could possibly be ancient ITI "F" type implant which was a one piece design.
You can send the pano to ITI and they might be able to come up with a positive ID.
Previous post makes sense, carefully remove bridge and see if it was cement or screw retained.
ITI might have some old pieces in storage!
Dr. Gerald Rudick
3/9/2016
If in doubt what the type of implant.... one stage or two, then cut off the bridge and you will know for sure, and my directions above can be followed
Lamberta
3/22/2016
Send X-ray to dentin implants someone there will identify for you.